Camino to Santiago de Compostela: the Arrival - Blog 6

Ann Milner

So, I made it and what a journey it has been. I don't think I was ever so close to giving up on a pilgrimage as I was when I came out of Sarria and met that beastly incline. OK, so I did give up on a pilgrimage once. It was in 2017, the Camino Ignaciano, a pilgrimage undertaken and documented by St Ignatius. I kept having a severe pain in the underneath part of my heel and no matter how much I tried to ignore it and 'walk through' it, it would not go away. I felt that if I didn't stop I would do permanent damage and that would be the end of my walking days altogether. It turned out to be plantar fasciitis which did eventually heal but took quite a long time and I have not (thank God) had a recurrence.

Having reached within 20 kms of Santiago, I knew I could not make it in one day from O Pedrouzo. I had undertaken quite a few long days so I felt it would be good to have two short days. The weather forecast for the next two days (Friday and Saturday) however was less than promising. For the next day, there was the possibility of rain in the morning but late afternoon the forecast was for thunderstorms. On Saturday, the forecast was for thunderstorms in the morning, then dying out in the afternoon. I felt I had a fair chance of getting to Lavacolla, 10 kms away, by lunchtime and thus avoid the afternoon storms. However, I was concerned about the Saturday morning. I experienced storms like this the last time I walked this stretch.

In 2015 I had started from O Pedrouza, got soaked, reached the next village, Amenal, just 3.3 kms down the road, stayed for a very long break, dried out somewhat and the rain eased. However, it started up again and by the time I reached Lavacolla I was soaked as was the inside of my boots - an excellent way to get blisters. I stopped there, luckily being able to get a room with, joy of joys, an electric oil filled radiator which I was able to plug in and dry all my clothes. By then the wind was blowing a gale and rain was coming down in torrents.

With this memory of Galician rain, I was apprehensive about what Saturday might bring. I decided I would stay in Lavacolla and hope the weather would improve or at least I could shelter between storms on the Saturday morning, walking into Santiago. Having only 10 kms to do, I set off later than normal on the Friday morning. I was the last out of the albergue and it was raining! However, the rain only persisted for about 30 minutes. It kept threatening to rain further but the threat never actually was carried out. By the time I reached Lavacolla, I was feeling much more optimistic about my walking capacity. I knew I wouldn't make it to Santiago but I thought I could get a bit further than here. There was a municipal refuge at Monte do Gozo, 5.5 kms away. The weather was promising, blue skies, a bit changeable, warm and on the whole, pleasant. The Camino was also mainly a pleasant, wide track through eucalyptus woods with an aromatic scent. Again with thunderstorms weighing on my mind I thought if I reached Monte do Gozo I would only have another 4.4 kms to do in the thunderstorms.

So Monte do Gozo was where I stayed on the Friday night. Monte do Gozo is where, on a good day, pilgrims can first catch a sight of their destination, the Cathedral. By late afternoon the view was relatively clear and yes, I could see the distinctive three spires of the Cathedral in the far distance.

The Friday afternoon thunderstorms never materialised, though there was heavy rain and thunder during the night. Having a short distance to cover on Saturday, again I was almost the last to leave the refugio. The sky was on the overcast side but it wasn't raining. Now the Camino was on pavement and it was a long, 4 km walk through the suburbs, initially downhill from Monte do Gozo then mainly up towards the old city.

I had received messages from two pilgrims I had met earlier in my journey. One, Brigitte was in Santiago but flying home later that day. She said she would wait for me in the square in front of the Cathedral. Imagine my delight when, about 0.5 kms from the Cathedral, there was Brigitte. We chatted excitedly and then we arrived at the entrance to the square. Brigitte, with great sensitivity, withdrew, saying it was right that I go in alone and have a moment. And thus it was that I finally reached the Cathedral at 9:25 on Saturday 6 May. I said 'Thank you' to God for getting me there, took a photo of the Cathedral and then a photo of my foot on the shell zero marker.

There is a story behind the 'foot on shell tradition'. Many years ago I walked the last 100 kms of the Camino del Norte with my son. He had started it several years previously with me but had been unable to finish. So, he welcomed the opportunity to finish it and obtain his Compostele. During our walk he struck up a friendship with a couple of Spanish lads his own age. They told us that when you arrive at the Cathedral you must take a picture of just one bare foot on the shell that marks the 'zero' point of the Camino. My son did this and I have also done it each time I have walked the Camino since. I have also told others about this 'tradition'. However, I have never seen anyone else do it! Nonetheless, I like the idea of it so I will continue to take photos of my foot on the shell.

Having completed that little ritual, I looked for Brigitte and asked if she would take a photo of me with the Cathedral in the background. After the photoshoot we sat down on the ground, opposite the Cathedral leaning against a pillar. She had said as we were walking in, that she had a surprise for me - well for us both. She produced a bottle of prosecco! 'It is not cold' she apologised but what a great surprise. She had also two paper cups and we sat and celebrated our arrivals. With the biscuits she also supplied it was a real feast. Meanwhile I had had messages from Muk who I had last seen many days ago at O'Cebreiro. She had arrived in Santiago several days ago but had gone out to Finistere and was returning to Santiago early today and had said she would meet me in the square and right enough, there she was. Again, it was a great reunion and she joined us in the feast, bringing more biscuits and nuts.

Eventually it was time to say goodbye to Brigitte. I hugged her and wished her a safe journey home. Muk and I went to the Pilgrim Office to get our Composteles and afterwards headed to the Cathedral for the Pilgrim Mass. It was special and during it tears welled up. I was so grateful for the encouragement I had received from other pilgrims, including a group of Irish I had met briefly the previous day. They had started from Sarria and though I didn't recognise them, they did me. They said they had passed me several times over the course of the last few days. I was so glad I had not given up after Sarria, having seen that yellow flower which I felt sure was a sign from above. To cap it all, at the end of the Mass, the Botofumeiro swung! I have spoken to people who have attended the Pilgrim Mass many times but never seen it swung. I felt it swung for Muk - during the service I had been asking God that it swing, not for me as I have seen it every time I have been in Santiago, but for Muk.

After Mass we walked round the Cathedral and I took the opportunity to light a candle for two people in particular. One was a pilgrim I had met recently to whom I had said I would light a candle, the other was for a friend at home.

Muk and I then went for food and after a convivial meal said our goodbyes and headed off to our respective albergues. I had booked ahead as I didn't fancy wandering around Santiago looking for accommodation with my rucksack. Again, I was staying in a private room in the Seminario Menor, a huge place with both dorm beds and private rooms that I mentioned in a previous Blog. Reaching the albergue, I gratefully settled in to what will be my home for the next three days.

And so ended my journey on the Camino.