Camino Astorga to Santiago de Compostella - Blog 2

So I started my Camino proper on 11 April. Leaving the refugio at 8.45am, it was a beautiful day. Cool but with blue skies. Soon I reached a little chapel, Ecce Homo, which I remembered from previous Caminos. Usually it was open and one could go in and light a candle but this time it was not. I prayed there; it had a lovely pilgrims prayer in English posted on it

I continued my way and after only 1.5 hours after starting I reached my destination - Murias de Rechivaldo - only just over four kms from Astorga. Still I wanted to take things easy in the first few days. There was a municipal albergue in the village so I went to find what time it opened. To my surprise and great joy, the door was open. There was a note from the hospitalero to say welcome, make yourself at home. So I did just that! Had a shower then went looking for the shop that my guide info said was in the village. Sadly, there wasn't one but not to worry, I had a pack of flavoured pot noodles type food and some tinned veg. The guide had said there was a kitchen in the refugio but I couldn't find it. However, the water from the hot tap was so hot, it cooked the noodles OK. So I had a pilgrim meal, washed down with rose wine, leftover from the previous day.

Next day dawned and I was out by just after 8am. In the municipal and parochial refugios, and those run by volunteers, pilgrims almost always have to be out by 8 to allow for cleaning etc. In private refugios they are sometimes not quite so strict. Skies not so blue, some ominous clouds in the distance. An hour later arrived at the next village and stopped for coffee as hadn't been able to make one at the refugio. Set off again and then had the incident of the shell.

Previously, in a message exchange with Kristi, I had asked if she had managed to get a shell in Oviedo. She said no, that she had been able to get her pilgrim Credential OK but not the shell. 'The shell will find me' she said which I thought was a lovely way to look at it. I had been wandering round Astorga and saw a shop selling shells, including some quite small ones. 'I could get one for my day sack' I thought to myself. The shop was closed. Later that day I passed it when it was open but could not see the shells in the window. 'That is odd' I thought, 'I was sure it was this shop. No matter, I am too tired to start tramping round Astorga looking for the correct shop.'

Back to 'now', I had left Santa Catalina, my coffee stop, and just 1 km or so beyond the village what did I come across but a small stall selling Camino badges, medals etc including a little, pink shell. It was perfect. My shell had found me!

Meanwhile the weather was getting a little worse. A rainbow appeared in the distance. There was a kind of intermittent rain but it was light and dried almost as soon as it fell. The route was mainly flat and easy going. I reached the next village, El Ganso, by 11.30. This in fact was my planned destination. I felt though I could go further if I had a rest. Fortunately, there was a bar open so I had another coffee and after a good rest, resumed the Camino. Clouds parted to show blue skies now and again but there was a cold wind blowing. About two kms from Rabanal, the next village, I stopped to rest at a Rest Area with a bench. There was an English pilgrim couple there. The chap told me the temperature was only 8 degrees due to the wind.

Soon after I left the rest area the rain started in earnest. Not exceedingly heavy, but enough to soak my trousers. Eventually I reached Rabanal and heaved a sigh of relief. I was pretty tired but somewhat cheered by the fact I had managed 14 kms on only day two of my pilgrimage. Just outside the village I had encountered a little chapel and stopped to say my usual prayer. I added 'and please can I have a lower bunk bed?' Thankfully my prayer was answered. I had hoped to stay at the refugio run by the UK Confraternity of St James. The door was shut. As I stood there wondering why there was no info about opening times, the hospitalera stuck her head through a window and explained they could not accept pilgrims as their boiler had broken. I think she must have read my disappointed body language as she insisted I come in for a cup of tea and cake and to warm up - they had a lovely fire going in the common room.

Gratefully I accepted. 'Do you think the municipal refugio will still have space?' I asked. 'Yes' she said. I warmed up with the fire and tea and she said I could have breakfast there next morning. Next morning I awoke to a snow-covered scene. Granted it was a light covering but it was cold and windy. After breakfast at the CSJ refugio, Fiona, the hospitalera insisted I take a heavy-ish T-shirt and a pair of gloves. I had not packed for snow! I thanked the volunteers for their kindness and set off feeling warm enough. The church was open so I went in and lit a candle, praying for the CSJ refugio that the problem with the boiler would soon be resolved, and also for Kristi, that she would have a fulfilling Camino.

I was heading for just the next village, only about six kms away but now the flat Camino gave way to a steep climb. It started snowing, light snow but the wind was head on and driving the snow into my face, stinging my cheeks. The snow turned to sleet. On and on I plodded. It was very difficult. Soon after 10 I reached my destination and to my relief there was an open, warm bar. I headed in for coffee and who should I meet but the English couple from the previous day. They were going all the way to Molinaseca, a further 19.1kms. I didn't envy them. They were only carrying day sacks as they booked accommodation ahead and sent luggage ahead but I would not have liked to do that distance in this weather. I have walked this part of the Camino three times previously but have been lucky with the weather - it had never been this bad. We said our goodbyes and I settled down to wait for the parochial refugio to open.

Eventually it did and I was able to register and get my bed BUT there were no blankets. The dormitory had no heating. It was absolutely freezing. And I had no sleeping bag! I had left it at home, just carrying a sleeping bag liner and a bivvy bag. I lay them on the bed and all I could feel was the freezing mattress. I also had a very light airbed so I inflated it and it did insulate me from the mattress. I lay down to rest, fully clothed including the thermal base layer and my raincoat. After resting I got up and did some diary. I hadn't had a shower for a couple of days but no way was I going to take my clothes off to shower there.

Eventually the hospitalero wheeled a gas fire into the dormitory which did take the chill off. Later that evening I saw the hospitalero give a blanket to a female Spanish pilgrim. I asked if he had another, explaining I had no sleeping bag. He shook his head doubtfully. However, he reappeared with a sleeping bag. I was so grateful. I don't know if I would have been able to sleep in that cold room without it as naturally, the fire was turned off at lights out.

Next morning it was with some trepidation the I exited the refugio. The sky was overcast. It was not long before it started raining. Again the wind was strong and driving the rain into my face. Up and up I plodded. I decided to remain on the road rather than go on the Camino as it was stony. At last I reached Cruz de Ferro and at 1504 meters, the highest point of this part of the Camino. Alas visibility was minimal. Mind you, I have done this journey before so I already knew what the views were like.

On I went, at least it was mainly downhill now and as yet not too steep. After a few kms I reached Manjarin and the place where a chap called Thomas had a refugio. It was very basic, he lived off-grid so no electricity, no hot showers but I believe he did have heating in the form of an open fire. The price for a bed was donation. I had passed it altogether on 3 different occasions and often wondered about staying there - though only when the weather was warm! It appealed to my 'hippy side'. The authorities had tried to close him down at some point. The hospitalera at Rabanal had said it was now closed and I could see from the 'Prohibido el Paso' signs that indeed it was. It was a sad sight and just at that moment, a dog that I hadn't noticed before, chained to a kennel, gave out a long, mournful howl. The dog echoed my feelings of sadness at the closure but also that feeling when you're wet and cold and tired and your feet ache and you can't stop and rest because the weather is too cold and wet and miserable!

Soon after, I decided to leave the road and take the Camino as the road seemed to be ascending but the Camino descending. This was a mistake! The Camino did indeed go down, then up, then down again, meanwhile getting narrower and narrower and with puddles in parts. Other, faster pilgrims had to ask me to move over or stop in order to get past. I looked longingly at the road but it was much higher up and I couldn't scramble up to get to it. Eventually the Camino met the road again to cross it and continue on the other side. I ignored the Camino and kept to the road. 'I did not come to Spain to walk in blizzards and driving rain.' I grumbled to myself, 'If this continues, I am going to get a bus to somewhere more south and warmer and drier and relax in the sun.'

At long last, just after 11, having walked 11.5 kms non stop, the sign for El Acebo, my destination came into view. It had taken me three hours which actually wasn't bad going given the weather. There was a bar open at the entrance to the village and I went in and had a most welcome cup of coffee. They advertised hot sandwiches. I couldn't resist a hot, bacon bocadillo (Spanish for sandwich). It was half a French baguette stuffed with bacon. It looked as though the chef had used a whole pack of bacon in the making of it and it was delicious. Eventually it was time to find a bed. The parochial refuge was closed I had been told but I was able to find a reasonably cheap private albergue which did me for the night.

I met two women from the UK there. They asked where I lived.' Hertfordshire' I replied. 'So do we' they responded, 'where abouts?', 'Hitchin' I said. 'We live in Hertford' they said. What a co-incidence. We chatted till they went for dinner at the albergue. I still had half a bacon bocadillo to finish so I declined to join them. After doing diary stuff I settled down, wondering what the next day would bring.

And so ended another day on the Camino.