Camino for CAFOD - Blog 4

Ann Milner and another pilgrim

So, I did manage the 13.5 kms to Sahagun the next day. The route went through a couple of villages and to my surprise, by 7.15am, I was entering the first village and paused to photograph a red bush bathing in the early morning sun which had just peeped over the horizon. In this village there were hand-made decorations festooned around the main square. I wondered about their significance. I stopped as usual to pray at the church then pushed on to the next village to have a coffee stop.

I reached Sahagun by 10.30am but it was a long, slow, incline and brought one through a kind of industrial area. It was very hot and I was definitely out of breath, struggling and longing for a cold drink by the time I reached the centre of the town. I discovered later that the temperature that day was 27C degrees and it would be even hotter the next day. Heading for the recommended refugio, I was sure there would be a bar nearby. The refugio was right on the other side of the town - "at least I'm near the exit for tomorrow," I thought to myself. There wasn't a bar nearby but there was a place to sit - the refugio didn't open till 12.30pm. Eventually, I duly registered and got my bed but was too tired and hot to do any washing.

However, I was very glad I had gone there. It was in a Benedictine Monastery but the refugio was run by the Marist order of priests and brothers. The welcome was wonderful, I was offered cold water and a sweet! Pilgrims were divided into language groups and someone who could speak their language took them round and explained where things were and what activities took place, all of which were optional. They had a 'sharing session' at 17.00pm at which pilgrims could chat about themselves, why they were doing the Camino and whatever, Mass was at 18.30pm and there was a communal meal at 20:00 for which you had to book in advance and contribute something simple. There was, very conveniently, a supermarket just opposite the monastery. I joined in all the activities - again at the sharing and the dinner they made sure pilgrims were with a group that could speak their language.

At dinner, a Marist brother called Ivan sat beside me. It turned out he was from Sheffield and in conversation it turned out we both knew a Marist religious. He knew her because of the order, I knew her because she volunteers with Pax Christi. What a coincidence! Danny, who seemed to be the main leader of the team, had asked people to put a pin in the world map showing where they were from. He also asked pilgrims to take a selfie when they reached Santiago and send it to them. He said they were trying to encourage the spirituality side of pilgrimage. I felt they were certainly doing that. I also felt they were trying to encourage the community aspects.

Next morning, I tried to register the negative COVID test I had taken the previous day (one of the extra items weighing me down was a full pack of COVID tests) but apparently you can't register them on the NHS 'app' if you are not in the UK. I headed off by 6.45am, a bit later than I would have liked. Shortly after 9.35am I was approaching my destination for the day - not too bad, a distance of 10kms. There was a little chapel with a very inviting open door. I went in and lit a candle for all, but especially for someone I know who is facing a challenging time. There was a chap in attendance outside the chapel and he told me it was only open one day a year and this was it. I felt very blessed to have happened on it on that day.

Continuing to the village, I stopped at the first refugio. 'Do you have a reservation?' 'No' I answered. They were full. Not to worry, there were three others. I passed another but decided to head for one called Santa Clara. It took ages but I found it. 'Do you have a reservation?', 'No' I answered. They were full. The hospitalera tried phoning the one I had passed but could get no answer. I was starting to be concerned but then she said there was a parish refugio but it didn't open till 13:00pm. It was now about 10:30 so a bit of a wait. I checked with her that you cannot reserve the parish refugio and she said 'No, you cannot'. I knew then I would have a bed.

When I was admitted to the refugio, I understood that, like a couple of days ago in Terradillos de los Templario, when I had heard the church bells, the lack of beds in the private refugios was not a rejection but an invitation from God. The refugio had a lovely little chapel and after dumping my stuff and showering I went down to it and said a rosary of thanks.

Next day was very short, only just under eight kms but lots of 'stuff' happened. I got my walking clothes washed in a machine - I had slept in them three times by now! I met a French woman, Gina who was walking with her friend Francoise to raise funds for a children's cancer charity. Gina took videos and posted them on YouTube. I also met there a Dutch couple - the man had had prostrate cancer a few years previously and had been operated on and was now clear. I found myself telling them why I was doing the Camino. Chatting to people, sometimes I say why I'm walking and sometimes not. I also met a lady, Liz, who lives in Scotland and had been treated for breast cancer several years ago.

That evening Anne Marie, the Dutch lady, told me about an 'app' that she was using to check accommodation. It was on her iPhone but I could find it OK and download it onto my phone. It was brilliant. This was one of the greatest gifts of the Camino because it told one whether refugios were open or not, how much thy cost and whether they could be reserved or not, as well as contact details and a map showing where they were - though one had to be online to get the map. I had found the Tourist Office in Sahagun which had given me a list of accommodation but there was no info re prices, opening times etc. So far I have found the 'app' to be accurate.

Next day, I caught up with the Dutch couple at a coffee stop at a bar which was also a refugio (everyone walks faster than me!). It was lovely to chat with them but they had booked beds in the next village but I decided to stop here - there was a bed available in the refugio. Also the two French ladies were here. Their next day stop was just over 16 kms away which I thought I could do, but there were no non-reservable (parish or municipal) refugios there and if they were full I wouldn't be able to go further. As it happened, they had booked the refugio for Saturday night but they were going to arrive on Friday so they had to change their booking. I asked them if they could book for me as well. They did. For the first time on the Spanish camino I booked ahead. It meant I would have a bed even if I arrived very late which was likely given the distance.

Next day I set off. The terrain was tending to change from the flatness of earlier days into undulating ups and downs. The ups were not that steep but not easy nonetheless and it was getting hotter. I passed some calves in a field and they stared curiously at me. Again, there was a lovely yellow flower bathed in the early morning sun that I had to photo. The day progressed OK, I found places to stop for coffee but right at the end, there was a really steep incline to get into my destination. Again, it was a struggle but I reached the refugio and had my bed by 13.00pm - a great relief but I had made quite reasonable time. Next day would be a short 8.3 km walk into Leon. I had now walked a total of 107 kms.

For those of you reading this extract from my blog who would like to read the full version, please send me an email at camino4hunger@famma.info.

It might take a few days for me to respond as internet access is sporadic but I will respond.

And another plug for CAFOD's Walk for Hunger Campaign:

If you would like to, please donate to my justgiving page at: https://walk.cafod.org.uk/fundraising/camino4hunger