Camino for CAFOD - Blog 3

My last blog finished by saying that we had just completed our second day on the Camino. By 7:30 we were up and having brekky which had been laid out the night before by the refugio staff. It was offered for a donation - or donativo. By just after 8.30, Yvonne had phoned for a taxi to take her back to Fromista to catch her train, we exchanged hugs and I was on my way. Again, it was a pleasant day. An hour later I reached the next village and found a very convenient bus shelter to rest for the best part of an hour. Staying up so late the previous night had not been a good idea and the couple of glasses of wine didn't help either.

Although the meseta is generally thought to be flat, in fact today there were slight inclines, very gentle, but I found even the slightest incline slowed me down. I had to take quite frequent rests, however, 3 hrs. 15 mins after setting out, I was on the outskirts of my destination, Carrion de los Condes and heading for an albergue called Espiritu Santo. By now I was pretty weary though I had made good time. Arriving at the high, metal, solid gates to the albergue, there was a sign to say it opened at 12:00 - in about 5 mins time. Something made me try the handle - it opened and I was admitted to a large courtyard-type place. There to my right was a Lourdes Grotto and further down another wall, a statue of Christ. How wonderful to be in a place of prayer. Having said that, the refugio last night did have a statue of Mary, the mother of Jesus.

There were a couple of other pilgrims there already and very soon the door to the albergue proper opened and a nun came out to register us. She gave each of us a Miraculous medal. The dorm had single beds rather than the usual bunk beds and there was a kitchen as well as a washing machine that pilgrims could use. There was also a lovely little chapel and we were told there would be prayers at 17.30. I visited it after being given my bed and said a prayer of thanks. There were also beautiful decorations on the corridor walls and dormitory doors.

By now, my left leg was throbbing so I had a shower hoping that would refresh me. It did to an extent but I needed to do the normal pilgrim task of washing and eating, so after that I lay down for about 1.5 hrs. All I could think of was how on earth am I going to be able to do the next day? I've only done 10 kms today and I'm in a right state. The following day was 17.3 kms. There was no choice, as unusually there was no accommodation for 17.3 kms. I thought about having my bag carried, something I have never done. But a voice inside said 'Have faith, have faith. It will be ok.'

After getting up I went in search of a supermarket and got food for the evening and breakfast and lunch next day. It was soon time for the prayer service after which I had some of the empanada for dinner. I was still pretty weary so this time I went to bed at a much more sensible hour - just after 20.30 - I was keen to be up and away quite early.

Next morning, some pilgrims were getting up at 5.30. I got up soon after, had breakfast and left the refugio by 6:45, had a coffee in a little nearby bar and was on my way just after 7.00. There were a number of churches and crosses en route out, at each of which I stopped to pray. About 1.5 hrs. into the journey I came across a group of stones, arranged into a cross. It was another signal to pray.

I told myself I would take it easy and rest frequently. There were no villages either between here and my destination but ironically, on two occasions that I stopped for a rest, had I walked on just another couple of minutes I would have arrived at a mobile bar! I had brought food for the journey with me as I had no guidebook and didn't know there were snack places en route.

I was very touched by the number of people who stopped to ask if I was OK while I had my rest breaks. They were really kind - this is something of the spirit of the camino. Quite a number of pilgrims passed by carrying day sacks. I consoled myself with the thought that I was not in competition with them for a bed - I planned to stay at the municipal albergue which one cannot book.

Today the route was pretty well flat and I made good progress. On and on I walked but there was no sign of a town. I wondered how far I still had to walk. I could see a ridge in the distance and assumed the village would be somewhere over the ridge. The time was approaching 1pm and I could see a dip in the road ahead into which pilgrims were disappearing. When I reached the dip, I couldn't believe my eyes. There, nestling at the bottom of the dip was Calzadilla de la Cueza, my destination. My relief was so great, I shed a tear. I had made it. 17.3 kms. And I didn't feel too bad.

To my disappointment, the municipal albergue was closed, it had not reopened after COVID. I went to the nearby private refugio. 'Have you booked?' the hospitalero said. 'No' I replied. 'I have only top bunks left' he said. I shrugged my shoulders, I was too tired to go to the other albergue. Maybe a kind pilgrim will swap with me. He registered me, I paid, then he took me upstairs to the dorm. I don't know what prompted his next actions, perhaps he clocked my age (you have to show your passport to register) or whether he noticed how I was struggling to get up the stairs (they were quite steep) but he led me through the main, big dorm to a smaller room with only eight beds. He then took the 'reserved' sticker off a bottom bunk and put it on the top, motioning to me to take the bottom bunk. I very nearly wept I was so relieved. I could only keep saying 'Gracias, gracias, gracias', over and over again. As it happened, the reserving person turned out to be a young, slim, fit looking German lad so I didn't feel he had been unduly deprived. I was relieved it wasn't a mature, portly pilgrim.

So the day ended well. Weather was very pleasant, not too hot and I sat in the sun with a nice cold beer, typing up my diary. And so to bed early again at 20.30.

I had planned two very short stages (just over 6 kms each) for the next two days but next day, as I continued on the Camino, I felt much stronger, as though my muscles were starting to remember what was required of them. There were several small villages at frequent intervals which provided accommodation and I thought I could do better than 6 kms. I reached my planned destination by 10:00, a good place to stop for coffee but really a bit early to stop completely. I definitely felt strong enough to continue. At coffee I got talking to a Canadian girl who had overdone it and had to take a taxi back here after badly straining a muscle. She was stopping here and encouraged me to do likewise. It was very tempting - being able to chat in English made a welcome change and we hit it off well. However, I pushed on and reached the next village, 3.3 kms later. I still felt strong enough to continue to the next village, another 3.4 kms and was considering this as I rested on a handy bench.

Just then I heard church bells. It was Sunday. It was 11.50. 'I bet that is the bell for Mass' I thought to myself. It seemed to me that God was giving me a gentle nudge. Off I went and found the church and got Mass. It was the first time for quite a while that I had been to a physical (as opposed to an internet) Mass - due to various reasons. After Mass the priest came down and asked where I was from. I hoped for a stamp for my Pilgrim Credential but sadly they didn't have one. A lady then came in to demonstrate their Christmas model village. She turned a key and the village lit up and smoke came from chimneys etc. I then set off to find the albergue and had a delicious 'Menu of the Day', half of which I was able to store away for next day.

I now planned to definitely head for Sahagun tomorrow, a total of 13.5 kms, thus reaching it a day early. The nun at Carrion had given me a leaflet for a refugio. It was another place run by a religious order and had washing facilities and I thought if I can get on the road early enough, and arrive early enough, I could get my walking clothes washed - I had after all slept in them twice! Again I got an early night so as to make an early start next morning.

For those of you reading this extract from my blog who would like to read the full version, please send me an email at camino4hunger@famma.info.

It might take a few days for me to respond as internet access is sporadic but I will respond.

And another plug for CAFOD's Walk for Hunger Campaign: If you would like to, please donate to my justgiving page at; https://walk.cafod.org.uk/fundraising/camino4hunger